Back to the main bridge page


 

Here's a new bridge writeup and photo from David Childers.

 



On October 6th, David wrote:

Mornin' Red,

Thanks for keeping the maple bridge thread going. I finally tried it on my Washburn M3. This is a Korean import I've had to return twice with a collapsing top. Now the top seems to be stable but the tone stayed at the factory. With a standard adj. bridge, the tone is quiet, thin and weak. The chop is more of a rattle. After an hour or so of playing it improves but only a bit.

With the one piece maple bridge, I've got respectable volume, better bass response and a more solid sounding chop. Individual string clarity is much improved too.

I also like the fact that I can pick closer to the bridge and not get that really shrill sound, just a sharper, slightly louder tone.

Here's a pic. Mine is based loosely on the one Steve T. is selling. I cut the blank to thickness with a table saw (5/16") and sanded it on a stationary sander. I cut the basic shape on my bandsaw, then used a drill press with a 1/4" forstner bit to start the cut out in the center of the bridge, finishing with my scroll saw for the cut out and tighter curves.

Then I marked the top on either side to taper down to 1/4" and used the sander again for that operation. I uses a small chisel and file to cut in the string compensations and my trusty (expensive) StewMac files to cut the string slots. I think I may borrow Mike S's idea and make a matching one from some scrap ebony I have. BTW, my maple is a slab cut.

Thanks again. David Childers

Here's that photo of David's bridge:

picture of bridge on a mandolin
 




 


 

Quick shortcuts:


Go back to the main bridge page

Go to Red's CD page

Go to Red's astronomy page

Go to Old English fonts and translations

Go to Red's electronics page

Go back to Red's Home Page




Go to The Murphy Method Home Page to check out our music instruction tapes!