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Here's a new bridge writeup and photo from David Childers.


On October 6th, David wrote:

Mornin' Red,

Thanks for keeping the maple bridge thread going. I finally tried it on my Washburn M3. This is a Korean import I've had to return twice with a collapsing top. Now the top seems to be stable but the tone stayed at the factory. With a standard adj. bridge, the tone is quiet, thin and weak. The chop is more of a rattle. After an hour or so of playing it improves but only a bit.

With the one piece maple bridge, I've got respectable volume, better bass response and a more solid sounding chop. Individual string clarity is much improved too.

I also like the fact that I can pick closer to the bridge and not get that really shrill sound, just a sharper, slightly louder tone.

Here's a pic. Mine is based loosely on the one Steve T. is selling. I cut the blank to thickness with a table saw (5/16") and sanded it on a stationary sander. I cut the basic shape on my bandsaw, then used a drill press with a 1/4" forstner bit to start the cut out in the center of the bridge, finishing with my scroll saw for the cut out and tighter curves.

Then I marked the top on either side to taper down to 1/4" and used the sander again for that operation. I uses a small chisel and file to cut in the string compensations and my trusty (expensive) StewMac files to cut the string slots. I think I may borrow Mike S's idea and make a matching one from some scrap ebony I have. BTW, my maple is a slab cut.

Thanks again. David Childers

Here's that photo of David's bridge:

picture of bridge on a mandolin



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